90s gay fashion

The Gay Nineties is a micro-era within the larger Victorian time period. Gay as in joyful and Nineties as in 1890s. It was a transitional period from the stark Victorian era to the (relatively) easy-going new century.

A supposedly calm and carefree period right before the shift of the century, the Gay Nineties evokes a feeling of gaiety and industrial development. It covers the last decade of the 19th century, from 1890-1905, and represents a decadent period of excess right at the twist of the century. It crosses over with the Gilded Age (1870s-1900) and the Belle Époque (French, 1870-1910), and leads into the Edwardian Era (1901-1910).

Using micro-eras as inspiration for digital collage creation is a great way to try something recent. Narrowing down on the exact visuals of a unattached decade makes it easier to examine that specific age period and really nail a particular “look” for the collage.

This post will briefly go over the history of the “Gay Nineties” as a nostalgic time period, focusing on visual elements, typefaces, and colors. The sequel to this post will include resources for where to discover Gay Nineties graphics and ephemera to use in ju

Straight Copying: How Gay Fashion Goes Mainstream

When J. Crew debuted their Liquor Store ten years ago, they transformed an after-hours watering hole into a menswear-only boutique laden with 1960s-era references to traditional masculinity. Dimly lit rooms were covered in plush leather chairs, oriental rugs, and wood paneling. In the corner of one area, a bookshelf was stacked with Strand-issued classics — Kerouac, Hemingway, and Cheever among them. Thick cashmere cardigans were draped over Globetrotter suitcases; striped rep ties rolled into lowball glasses. In another area, J. Crew showcased their collection of Red Wing heritage work boots. Once made for loggers, carpenters, and longshoreman, the preppy clothier has since helped mainstream these blue-collar styles into white-collar offices.

A limited years ago, I had the chance to interview Frank Muytjens, then the head of menswear design at J. Crew. We talked about his design process, his love for vintage, and how he chooses which third-party brands get included in J. Crew’s much-revered “In Good Company” section, which is where many American men first get introduced to storied names such as Barbour a

Remember the 1990s? (Were some of you even alive in the '90s?) For LGBTQ+ teens coming of age during this moment there was certainly less worldwide acceptance and media representation than there is today.

Still, queer teens growing up in the delayed '90s had plenty of pop culture icons, movie/TV shows, and fashion trends to latch onto. So let's take a stroll down memory lane and look at the things that influenced a generation of LGBTQ+ adolescents.

If you were a queer teen in the late '90s, odds are that you...

1.Watched "The Puppy Episode" of Ellen and were secretly elated when Ellen DeGeneres proudly proclaimed to the world, "I'm Gay!"

2.Secretly chatted with other LGBTQ teens using America Online (and got the disk with 500 free hours sent to your house almost every week in a pile of junk mail).

3.Dressed as a Mighty Morphin' Power Ranger every year for Halloween, if only to show off the spandex.

4.Always played as Princess Peach in Super Mario Bros 2. And you told your friends you picked her because she could jump the farthest, but deep down you just loved her style.

5.Frosted your tips and spiked it using Bed Leader hair gel or some other gel product (

Gay Nineties Spring Fashion Featured New Colors

Gay Nineties Spring Fashion trends bloomed with stylish new colors and comforts. While designs were growing more streamlined than those of earlier decades, embellishments remained the key to a contemporary appearance. Vibrant new fabrics ruled the sunlight. Garments for both day and evening wear often sparkled with embroidery, lace, velvet and satin details.

Fashion Illustration, c. 1890s. Image: Claremont College Digital Collection.

Victorian Era Spy Camera: Carl Stormer photo. Image: wiki-visually.

Four Students, Atlanta University, c. 1890s. Image: Library of Congress.

The last decade of the 1800s was a time of switch with a recent century on the horizon. The 1890s were years of mind-bending changes for the New Chick as she gained additional freedoms at home and in the workplace. Many engaged in sports once considered the playground for men only. Proponents of the Victorian Dress Reform Movement pushed harder than ever for clothing that was more practical and allowed greater freedom of movement.

Yellow Dress, S.T. Taylor Co.Spring 1899. Image: Claremont College Digital Library.

Woman in Pale, 1895 by Rene